#paris – Page 2 – Snapping The Globe

A View From The Top

Paris is a remarkable city. With an abundance of things to experience, it is a destination of which one never tires. Having not been in Paris for a couple of years, I was excited to see some areas that I have frequented on past visits and some sights that I had not yet had the pleasure.

Leaving the hotel, I decided to walk down the street to the Denfert-Rochambeau metro stop and inspect the line for the catacombs. A few years ago, I visited this eerie attraction, but had to wait in line for a couple of hours to enter. Finding the line wrapped around the circle to where I had joined last time and then way past, I decided that I was unwilling to devote that much time when there were so many other things to see, especially on a beautiful sunny day.

Jumping on the RER train at the adjacent metro/train station, I decided to head north to the Luxembourg stop. Arriving across from Luxembourg Gardens, I walked west in the 5^th arrondisement toward my destination, The Pantheon.

Having been to the Pantheon in Rome, which this one was modeled after, I have also walked past this one in Paris’ Latin Quarter, many times. For some reason, however, I had never ventured inside this Parisian landmark, most likely in recent years because it was under renovation. Proceeding through the gates, toward the entrance, I made note of the inscription above, “Aux Grands Hommes La Patrie Reconnaissante” (“For great men the grateful Nation”). This sums up what the Pantheon is all about.

In 1744, an ill King Louis XV vowed that if he recovered, the church of the Abbey of St. Genevieve would be replaced with one worthy of the patron saint of Paris. Construction began in 1757, with Jacques-German Soufflot in charge of the design.

After its completion, (named Sainte-Genevieve Church during this time) The French Revolution was in full swing. Changing the church into a mausoleum, the Revolutionist government deemed it a place to bury exceptional Frenchmen who had sacrificed their lives for their country or who had done something great for France. Although it flipped back and forth between church and mausoleum during the next few years, it now remains the latter, entombing the likes of Voltaire, Rousseau, Victor Hugo, Marat, Louis Pasteur, Jean Moulin, Marie Curie, Emile Zola, Louis Braille and its architect, Soufflot on its lower level.

While purchasing my ticket, I was also given the option of taking the tour of the dome, which departs at predetermined times. Since the next tour was scheduled in 45 minutes, I decided that it would be worth the 2 euro to see the Pantheon in its entirety as well as the spectacular panoramic views of the city.

For those obsessed with architecture, walking into the Pantheon is breathtaking. The main dome and its oculus is an architectural wonder, still holding the record for the world’s largest unreinforced concrete dome. The oculus and the entry door are the only sources of natural light and the oculus also serves as a cooling and ventilation method. The interior walls are decorated with paintings and mosaics of scenes from French history and offers many sculptures by Pierre-Jean David D’Angers of post-Revolutionary patriots.

Another important display within the Pantheon is Foucault’s Pendulum. In 1851, French physicist, Leon Foucault, designed a simple device as an experiment to demonstrate the rotation of the earth. The most famous of the Foucault Pendulums is on display here, suspended from the Pantheon’s dome and attracts a large crowd to watch the pendulum swing clockwise 11 degrees per hour, making the full circle in 32.7 hours.

Walking toward the rear of the Pantheon, I then headed down the steps toward the crypt. When entering the subterranean crypt, stunning frescoes depict scenes from the life of St. Genevieve. The area encompassing the many tombs is quite massive, taking you in three separate directions. The crypt area has a very modern feel and many displays offer history and information on the interred.

Finally heading upstairs, I proceeded to join the large number of other tourists in the cordoned-off area for the dome tour. Escorted by a multilingual tour guide up a multitude of stairs, we gathered for a quick stop on a mezzanine for a bird’s eye view of the Pantheon’s interior and closer inspection of the oculus. Climbing further still, we ascended onto an outside balcony enroute to the topmost area, a culmination of 276 steps. From here, we had awe-inspiring views of all of Paris, including notable landmarks, Notre Dame, the Eiffel Tower and the Sacre Coeur. Surprisingly, much time is given for everyone to enjoy and revel in the scenery before being escorted back down to the interior, where more time can be devoted to discovering all that the Pantheon has to offer.

Now that renovation of the Pantheon is complete, a visit is necessary for those who have never been, for history and architecture lovers and those obsessed with seeing the city in its entirety from a raised level. There are many ways to see the city from above, but the 360 degree view offered by the Pantheon is simply stunning. Take your time to enjoy the interior as well as the exterior, especially noting the exoteric construction. Combine your visit with the Luxembourg gardens and a stroll thru the Latin Quarter and this will surely fill a day in the City of Light.

Check out more pictures on Facebook, Snapping the Globe, and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

The Pantheon

http://www.pantheonparis.com/
Address: Latin Quarter, Place du Pantheon, Rue Soufflot, 75005 ParisMetro: Cardinal Lemoine
Hours: April 1 thru September 30, daily, 10:00-18:30, October 1 thru March 31, 10:00-18:00, closed January 1, May 1 and December 25.
Admission: 8.50€, general admission + 2€ for dome tour
Getting There: RER station-Luxembourg, Metro station-Cardinal Lemoine, Bus: 84, 89

Where Did Van Gogh?

Many times I have visited Montmartre in Paris. On this particular sojourn, wandering through the winding streets up and around the hill, I learned something interesting. Van Gogh not only lived in Paris…he lived right there in Montmartre.

Walking on Rue Lepic, eating my gelato and searching for the Passer Through Walls sculpture, I happened to notice a sign on a building with a bright blue door. The sign, written in French, stated “In this house, Vincent Van Gogh, lived with his brother Theo from 1886 to 1888.”

At the end of February 1886, Vincent Van Gogh could no longer pay his rent in Antwerp. Departing Belgium for Paris, he headed to the French capital, which was the center of the art world at the time, neglecting to inform his brother of his impending arrival. His brother, Theo, an art dealer, had little choice but to take him in, forcing them to share Theo’s small apartment at 25 Rue Victor Massé. A few months later, the brothers moved nearby to 54 Rue Lepic on the Butte Montmartre. Neighbors included Edgar Degas who lived at 50 Rue Lepic and Toulouse-Lautrec who lived around the corner.

Montmartre was a popular place for artists as it was relatively cheap and there were many “open studios” where artists could learn and work.

Van Gogh’s time spent in Paris was a very crucial part of his career. He abandoned the the dark Dutch and Belgian tones and adopted colorful, luminous hues as he experimented with new styles like Impressionism.

After two years, Van Gogh tired of the hustle and bustle of Paris, moved out of the apartment on Rue Lepic and headed for the southern part of the country. Arles, France was where he made his home and was what inspired him to paint in the way most people think of him today…sunflowers, starry nights, night cafes…

I wonder who lives at 54 Rue Lepic now?

Check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe for more pictures.

Van Gogh’s Apartment

Getting there: Take metro, line 12 (green) to Abbesses stop. Walk west on Rue de Abbesses until fork in the road. Take Rue Lepic (at fork) to the right. 54 Lepic is a short walk on the right.

The Passer Through Walls

For art lovers, one of the best places to be in the world is in Paris. The beauty of the city has inspired artists of every type for centuries.

Many people associate the area of Paris, Montmartre, with the artists who paint and display their works there, but I discovered another artist’s work in Montmartre that I certainly had to track down…the “ Passer Through Walls” or Le Passe-Muraille.

Situated in Place Marcel Aymé, just off of Rue Norvins, this statue is one of the most interesting that I have ever encountered, not only for its uniqueness, but for the story behind it. The bronze patina sculpture by Jean Marais is of a man that appears to be walking out from the wall in this small square. Marais, also an actor, created this sculpture in 1989 to pay tribute to Marcel Aymé, a popular French novelist, screenwriter and playwright, who created the character of Mr. Dutilleul, a ministry department clerk who discovers that he has the gift of walking through sold walls. After enduring the humiliation that his colleagues and superiors subject him to at work, Dutilleul uses his talent to avenge himself. Using and abusing his powers, one day they abandon him… just as he walks thru a wall, leaving half of his body trapped in the stone.

Marcel Aymé, buried in the nearby cemetery St. Vincent, spent most of his life in Rue Norvins and set many of his novels in Montmartre. His publication has inspired many cinematic adaptations, such as the French comedy farce film known as Mr. Peek-a-Boo, by Jean Boyer and the 1959 German film, The Man Who Walked Through the Wall, by Ladislao Vajda.

The statue emerging from the wall is very engaging and its left hand is shiny from all of the tourists who come to help the poor man. His head, right arm, left leg and left hand come forth from the wall. Legend has it that late at night many a passerby hear a muffled voice, which is believed to be Dutilleul, calling out from the wall and on some winter nights, the painter Gen Paul serenades the poor prisoner with a song on his guitar. Nearby on the wall, someone, (who’s maybe been to Amsterdam and visited the Bronze Breast?) has placed a breast and buttocks on the wall near Mr. Dutilleul. Who knows… maybe it’s to give the poor trapped man company.

Though off the beaten track, walking the winding streets through the lesser known parts of Montmartre, searching for Le Passe-Muraille, makes for a nice departure from the busy crowded areas such as Place du Tertre and the Sacre Coeur. Be on the lookout for Le Moulin de la Galette, a restaurant located about ½ a block away, located in a windmill. Even if you do not dine here, it’s certainly worth a short stop for a picture!

Check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe for more picture.

Le Passer Muraille

Getting there: Take the metro, line 12 (green) to Abbesses station. It is a short walk to the north from there, located on the corner of Rue Norvins and Rue Girardons.

My Montmartre

One of the areas that I absolutely love in Paris, is Montmartre.

Standing at the foot of the 270 stairs which lead to the summit of the hill of Montmartre, the Sacre Coeur presiding at the top always takes my breath away. Much fun can be had browsing the many souvenir shops, stopping for crepes along the way and many a cocktail hour or dinner can be whiled away in the legions of restaurants and bars.

My favorite part of Montmartre, however, is Place du Tertre. One of the most visited areas in Paris, it is known for the artists painting and exhibiting their works as well as the area where artistic legends once lived and worked; Van Gogh, Picasso, Modigliano. There are many portraitists and caricaturists, however, there are also artists working in a variety of mediums, including pen and ink, oils and watercolors. Quite a few paintings purchased here grace my walls and a couple of crazy stories remain in my memory.

Years ago, while browsing the myriad of paintings in the square, I came across an artist selling watercolors depicting Parisian scenes. Not usually a fan of watercolors, these, however, caught my eye for the deep, bright hues and the modern feel. Despite the price, I decided that I absolutely loved them and had to have them. After much debate, I settled on two compositions. The artist accompanied me to pay for the purchase with my credit card, only I was shocked to hear that my credit card was declined! Knowing that there should not have been a problem with my card, I reluctantly pulled out another and completed the purchase.

After arriving home, I stealthily crept upstairs and stashed the duo in my art folder in the back of a closet until a time when I could frame and display them. Not wanting my husband to question me about how many euro I had spent, I planned to pop them out at a later date. At dinner that night, my husband casually asked, “So what did you buy for $275 in Paris this weekend?” Shocked into speechlessness, I could not fathom how my husband would have known that I bought anything much less the exact price! It seems, however, that my husband was doing some grocery shopping at Walmart at the exact same time that I was trying to complete my artistic purchase. When the attempt to put my purchase through occurred, his purchase at Walmart had just been completed. Our credit card’s trusty fraud department promptly called him to inquire about my purchase and informed him of the exact amount. So much for keeping my purchase a secret! The paintings, however, now secure the perfect spot on my living room wall and every time I glance at them I chuckle and think about how I was BUSTED!

On another trip, a few years later, I discovered some unique oil paintings of female characters that I knew would look amazing in my dining room. After purchasing and hauling them back in my suitcase, they have now graced my walls for many years.

When my middle son turned thirteen, we visited Paris for his birthday. While walking through Place du Tertre, we stopped to admire an artist’s work. Deciding to purchase a couple of the pieces, I was chatting with the gentleman and discovered that the paintings were actually his wife’s. Glancing to the right, as we spoke, the works there caught my eye and stunned me into total silence. They looked like the same type of paintings that hang on my dining room walls. “Ian”, I said, regaining my voice and gesturing toward the canvases, “Look at these. Where have you seen these before?” It took a few minutes, but then I saw his face light up when he realized what I was talking about. The artist was not quite comprehending what was going on, however, when we explained to him that three of his paintings hang in our home, he was thrilled to death!

The third and final memory that I have of Place du Tertre still makes Ian and I laugh to this day. After purchasing the “wife’s” paintings, we were walking around the square. This artist popped up in front of us, looking curiously at Ian. In a sing-song French-accented voice, he said, “I want to paint your baby face!” Ian thought it was extremely funny, however we politely declined. The artist proceeded to follow us around, exclaiming over and over again, “I want to paint your baby face!” Deciding that it was time to go, we left Montmartre to head over our next destination, the Arc de Triomphe. Later that evening, we decided to head back to Montmartre to have dinner. As we were walking on the cobblestone streets near the Sacre Coeur, a car turned the corner and began driving toward us. As the car passed us, we heard the same sing-song voice coming from the open window, “I want to paint your baby face!” Needless to say, the stalker painter had found us again!

Ooh la la! Would you not want to paint this “baby face”?

Although Place du Tertre has changed over the years, becoming more crowded with tourists, it is still a place that I love to check out for new pieces to adorn my home. A new painting followed by a crepe and Mass on the weekends…it’s all there in Montmartre.

One of the “wife’s” paintings that hang in my dining room.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Getting to Montmartre

Metro: Abbesses Station (line 12). Walk east on Rue Yvonne le Tac until Rue Tardieu. You will be at the very foot of Montmartre hill.
Metro: Anvers Station (line 2). From the metro station, walk along Rue Steinkerque towards the Sacre Coeur. You can climb the stairs or take the funicular to the top.
Metro: Blanche Station or Pigalle (line 2). Check out the Moulin Rouge as you exit the station and walk north on Rue Lepic (Blanche) or Rue Houdon (Pigalle).
Metro: Lamarck Caulaincourt Station (the other side of the Montmartre Hill) (line 12). A walk up the hill will take you near the Musee de Montmartre.
Bus: Le Montmartrobus makes stops throughout Montmartre. You can find the map on the RATP website: http://www.ratp.fr/informer/pdf/orienter/f_plan.php?loc=reseaux&nompdf=montmartrobus: