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St. Peters
St. John the Lateran
St. Mary Major
St. Paul’s Outside the Walls
Of the four major basilicas in Rome, I had been to three. It was time to venture a little out of the city center in search of the latter.
Strangely, I had never heard of St. Paul’s Outside the Walls. While reading a thread about the bus system in Rome, I came across the name from someone seeking travel instructions. This basilica, while occupying land in Italian territory, is not within the territory of the Vatican City State as are the other three. Located outside the Aurelian walls of Rome, hence its name, the Holy See fully owns the Basilica, however, Italy is legally obligated to recognize the Vatican’s full ownership.
Getting to St. Paul’s is not extremely difficult. Discovering that the basilica is adjacent to a metro stop of the same name, I decided that taking the metro would be the easiest way to travel. Arriving at the station of Basilica San Paolo, the dome of the basilica was easily spotted. Following a group of nuns past the clock tower ensured I was on the right path!
Arriving at the entrance on the west side of the basilica, I was shocked to see something I would only expect at St. Peter’s…a long line waiting to go through security. The line was not very organized and much too wide. People were busy talking and not moving forward, while others were walking up the sides of the line and moving ahead. After a twenty minute wait, I finally made my way up and past security.
There are many things that set this basilica apart from the others. When entering the structure, the lovely columns that line the front of building enclose a remarkable courtyard. Until you reach the center, you don’t quite see the beauty of the basilica’s gold front facade with the detailed mosaics that catch the sunlight. In the courtyard stands an imposing statue of the apostle Paul amidst an impeccably maintained garden .
Interesting to note is that this courtyard and facade as well as many things within the church were all added in the nineteenth century. Of all the churches in Rome, this particular one had preserved it primitive character for 1,435 years until it was destroyed by fire in 1823. Eager to see the basilica rebuilt, the world contributed to its restoration; the Viceroy of Egypt sent pillars of alabaster and the Emperor of Russia, malachite and lapis lazuli for the tabernacle. The Italian government ensured that work on the principle facade, looking toward the Tiber, was completed and declared the church a national monument.
Walking up to the basilica, a central bronze door, with inlaid silver, is the focal point. It was created in 1930 by Antonio Maraini, after the original, a gift from Pope Gregory VII in 1070, was damaged by the fire. (The original, can be seen, restored, on the inside of the basilica). The reliefs on the door present scenes from the lives of Saints Peter and Paul. More importantly, this door is flanked on the right by one of the four Holy Doors in Rome, as declared by the Vatican. The Holy Door is only opened during Jubilee years by the Pope (once every twenty-five years).
When entering the church, you are overcome by the vastness of the space only broken by the four rows of twenty granite columns that separate the central nave from its aisles. The original columns of the church before the fire had been taken from ancient Roman temples and were unable to be salvaged.
Most interesting are the circular paintings of the popes that line the space, something not seen in the other basilicas. Most of these paintings were damaged by the fire and restored, but some of the inscriptions have been eternally lost. The pictures begin with St. Peter to the present pope, Francis. Very few spaces remain and legend has it that when these spaces are filled, a major event will occur.
Walking farther into the basilica, you will find a recessed area with circular stairways leading down on either side. Here you will find the surviving links of the chain, on a silk background, that according to tradition, held St. Paul while he was a prisoner in Rome between 61 and 63 AD. These chains are illuminated and displayed in a case near his tomb which is located under the altar.
Near the front of the altar area, take note of the carved Pachal candle which stands more than 16 feet high and was made in the 12th century by Nichola dell’Angelo and Pietro Vassalletto.
At the rear of the church are the chapels, the Blessed Sacrament Chapel, the Chapel of Saint Benedict, the Chapel of St. Laurence and the Chapel of St. Stephen. Above the Tabernacle in the Blessed Sacrament Chapel hangs a magnificent crucifix sculpted by Pierre Cavallini. This is the crucifix of which Christ turned his head toward St. Bridget of Sweden and gave her the “15 Prayers of St. Bridget”.
While in the apse, take a look upward at the only remaining part of the medieval basilica, the 13th century mosaic, created by Venetian artists. This breathtaking mosaic, ordered by Pope Honorius III, depicts Christ on a throne flanked by the Apostles Peter, Paul, Andrew and Luke.
At the end of the right transept is the entrance to the cloisters and the Chapel of Relics. An entrance fee is required to enter, but worth every penny to see the cloisters with their graceful, twisted mosaics-filled columns that line the arcades. These cloisters, built between 1208 and 1235 by the Vassalletti family, were untouched by the fire of 1823 and have often been described as the most beautiful in Rome. The walls of the walks are lined with ancient sculpture and epigraphy recovered in excavations, mostly during the rebuilding of the church. In the center of the cloisters is a rose garden. This area was relatively empty during my visit, allowing me to enjoy the peace and solitude which should accompany an area of that nature. The Chapel of the Relics is worth only a quick visit now that the Chains of St. Paul are displayed within the church.
After exiting the church, a visit to the well-outfitted gift shop offers not only rosaries and other religious objects, but bottles of wine made by the Benedictine monks (not sold on Sundays or religious holidays). You can also stop in to the cafe, next to the gift shop, for a snack or drink.
If visiting all four basilicas on your trip to Rome is a priority, then a trip to St. Paul’s Basilica is in order. Many things set this particular basilica apart from the others in the city and certainly warrant visitation. Although a little farther than the other attractions of the great city of Rome, it is not extremely difficult to reach and worth the extra effort to mark St. Paul’s off of your “church bucket list”.
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Basilica de San Paolo
- http://www.basilicasanpaolo.org/
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Piazzale San Paolo, 1, 00146 Roma
- Admission: Basilica entrance, free. Cloister, €3.00
- Hours: Basilica, Daily, 0700-1830, Cloister, 0830-1815
- Getting There: Metro, Line B, stop, Basilica San Paolo. Bus, Number 23 (Pincherle-Parravano), stop, Ostiense-S. Paolo