Having visited Athens on many occasions, I have seen the Acropolis, more than once, as well as many of the archaeological sites throughout the city. After a bit of research, I discovered one archaeological site that I had not explored on my other sojourns…Kerameikos, the thirty centuries old cemetery located on the northwest fringe of the city.
Hurrying through my impromptu church tour, I wanted to enter the cemetery before it’s early closing at 3:00 pm due to the Holy Week schedule. Having read many good things about the cemetery, I was determined to arrive with enough time to visit both the grounds and the museum.
Easy to reach, by walking the length of Ermou Street or via the metro (Keramiekos station, line 3), Kerameikos is just past the Monistiraki Flea Market and the Ancient Agora. Near the end of Ermou, there is signage pointing you in the correct direction and you can actually gaze upon the ruins below though the gates while walking to the entrance.
After paying my entrance fee of 2 euro, I made my way to the neo-classical styled museum. Informed by the ladies in the ticket office that the museum would take about 40 minutes, I started first by inspecting the statuary located outside under the portico, then finally moving in to the interior. Here, there is a vast display of burial-related artifacts, including marble sculptures, funerary urns, pottery, jewelry and toys. Most notable is the stunning bull, in the interior courtyard, from the tomb of Dionysios of Kollytos. A large number of original burial monument sculptures and grave markers are displayed at the museum in the outer courtyard, with plaster replicas replacing in them in their original sites.
Museum entranceStatuary on the portico
From the tomb of Dionysios of Kollytos
Grave markers
The immense number of grave markers, located just outside of the museum are small and plain and not quite what one would expect in a graveyard, resembling more of an ancient road marker or small sign post. These stark gravestones resulted from a a decree in 317 BC that prohibited more elaborate monuments, such as those with statues, that were in vogue at the time. After passing the grave markers while exiting the museum, I moved out to the paths that clearly define and move you throughout the site.
The ancient district of Kerameikos was located within the city walls of Athens with many ceramic workshops in the area. The outside part of Kerameikos served as the burial grounds. Located within Kerameikos was the Sacred Gate, and the start of the Sacred Way, or Iera Odos, which connected Athens with Eleusus and used by the many pilgrims traveling between the two cities during the procession of Panathenia. The Dipylon Gate, the main entrance to the city, was the spot where Pericles gave his most notable speech honoring those who died in the first year of the Peloponesian war. State graves were built on either side of the Dipylon Gate, for Athens notable warriors and statesmen, including Pericles and Cleisthenes. The Dipylon Gate was also the starting point of the ancient Dromos (Road) leading to the Platonic Academy.
Sacred GateRoad to the Platonic Academy
The Pompeion
The Pompeion, the preparation site for the Panathenaic procession in honor of Athena, was located between the Sacred Gate and the Dipylon Gate. The original building was destroyed in 88 BC during the conquest and plundering of Athens and the Building of the Warehouses replaced it in the 2nd Century AD. The Eridanos river which once passed through the Sacred Gate still flows beneath the site, having been covered over since the Roman period.
On the Street of Tombs, replicas of gravestones of some of the most prominent citizens of Athens, can be seen here. These graves were part of the public graveyard and these notable citizens were buried here at the public expense. The original gravestones are now housed in the National Museum.
Street of TombsModern replicas of the burial monuments for Hegeso, daughter of Proxenios, and for Koroibos
Church of Agia TriadaThe Acropolis as seen from Kerameikos
Often overlooked by visitors, Kerameikos is one of the most significant historical monuments in Athens. Comprising much historical value, it assists visitors in understanding the ancient Athenian way of life and therefore is a “must-see”. The church of Agia Triada serves as a beautiful background to the cemetery and outstanding views of many other Athens sites can be seen from Kerameikos, such as the Acropolis and Lycabettus Hill. The area has been planted with Mediterranean vegetation and is large and open. Not crowded and easy to navigate, the cemetery is a wonderful way to spend part of a day in Athens!
Springtime at Kerameikos
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Kerameikos Cemetery
Hours: April 1 to October 31, 08:00-19:30 daily, Monday 11:00-19:30, November 1 to March 31, 08:00-15:00 daily
A few weeks ago, I was in the Dominican Republic on Easter Sunday, soaking up the sunshine on Bavaro Beach. Little did I realize that a little more than a month later, I would get to celebrate Easter again.
While checking the Acropolis museum website last week, I noticed a banner across the website opening page, Holy Week 2016 Opening Hours at the Acropolis Museum. “Oh, they must have not updated their web page this month”, I thought to myself.
Well, you are never too old to learn something new. The Greek Orthodox Church celebrates Easter later than the Catholic church. The Greek Orthodox Church uses the Julian calendar when calculating the date of Pascha (Easter), while the rest of Christianity uses the Gregorian calendar. There is a thirteen day difference between the two calendars with the Julian calendar being thirteen days behind the Gregorian. Additionally, the Orthodox Church maintains that Pascha must take place after the Jewish Passover in order to maintain the Biblical sequence of Christ’s Passion. Occasionally, the two do celebrate it on the same date (last time, 2011), however the dates of Easter for the Orthodox Church can be anywhere from one to five weeks later.
So, Easter was going to be celebrated on Sunday and all museums, archaeological sites and many shops would be closing early on Saturday? There goes my nap. Being that we would not be arriving until mid-morning, I realized that if I wanted to visit any museums or do any shopping, I would have to take a shower and hit the streets right away.
Having made the decision to visit Agia Dynamis, I decided to map out other churches in the area since it was a Holy Weekend. Visits to these would be accomplished on my way to and from the Kerameikos Ancient Cemetery. Some of my favorite things to see in other countries is their churches…what not a better weekend to see some of Athen’s finest, than on Easter weekend?
Agia Dynamis (Holy Power), a tiny church on the corner of Mitropoleos Street and Pentellis Street, is squeezed between two of the supporting pillars of the Ministry of Education and Religion building. The ministry has been party built around the church as it cannot be demolished due to its prominent history. During the Greek revolution this was the location, that the Greek ammunition master, Mastropavlis, made bullets for the Turkish and for Greek freedom fighters that were smuggled out during the night in garbage bags.
The church is very small and not very embellished. There were many Athenians visiting the church while I was on the premises, lighting candles and offering up prayers.
Walking up Mitropoleos Street, in the Platia Mitropoleos, I next arrived at the Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens and the adjacent and diminutive Agios Eleftherios church, also known as Mikri Mitropoli (little metropolitan church) or Panagia Georgoepikoos (meaning “All-saint Mary who answers quickly to prayers”).
The Agios Eleftherios church is a Byzantine-era construction from the 13th century ordered to be built by the bishop of Athens. With the expulsion of King Otho, in 1862, it received its current name, meaning “Freedom”.
The outside is constructed of marble with much artistic detail. It is extremely small inside, but beautiful in its simplistic character.
After my visit was complete, I moved onward to the Agios Eleftherios’ illustrious neighbor, the Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens, popularly known as the “Metropolis”.
Towering over the “little metropolitan church” and the square, the domed basilica has presided in its current location since 1842 when construction began on Christmas Day. Marble from 72 demolished churches was used to build the Cathedral’s colossal walls. After its completion 20 years later, the Cathedral was dedicated by the King and Queen to the Annunciation of the Mother of God. The cathedral, a major city landmark, is the site of official ceremonies and important wedding and funerals.
When entering the church, note the ancient marble, above the entrance, depicting a woman said to be Eileithyia, the goddess of childbirth. During the passage from mythology to Christianity, many temples were transformed into churches and leads one to believe that this particular church was probably built on the ruins of an ancient Greek temple dedicated to Eileithyia.
The interior is very ornate with rich color, distinctive iconography and a beautiful domed ceiling. The Cathedral houses the tombs of two saints, Saint Philothei and Patriarch Gregory V, both killed by the Ottoman Turks during the Ottoman period. The interior was roped off and the sanctuary could only be viewed from afar.
After exiting the Cathedral, I took a a moment to wander through the square taking note of the two statues which reside here; Saint Constantine XI the Ethnomartyr, the last Byzantine Emperor and Archbishop Damaskinos, the Archbishop of Athens during World War II, who was also Regent for King George II and Prime Minister of Greece in 1946.
Walking through the Plaka, I resumed my church tour arriving in Monastiraki Square. The square is named for the Church of Pantanassa (or Ekklisia Kimisi Theotokou Mitropoleos) which is also located here. This small church presides over the square and the crowds of tourists that congregate here for shopping, dining, sightseeing and utilization of the metro at the Monastiraki station.
This church was known as the Great Monastery as it was located on the site of a monastery that stood here many years ago. Later, it became monastiraki (little monastery) which eventually denominated the entire area. Deciding to forgo the interior of this small shrine, I admired it from outside and continued on my way.
My next destination was the Kerameikos Cemetery, Museum and Archaeological Site located near the end of Ermou Street. The cemetery, one of the lesser known archaeological sites in the city, is most certainly worth a visit while in the area.
After my visit to Kerameikos Cemetery, I headed back through Monastiraki Square and walked along the Ancient Agora admiring Hadrian’s Library and the Tower of the Winds.
Hadrian’s Library, Ancient AgoraTower of the Winds, Ancient Agora
My final destination was the Church of the Holy Trinity or Sotira Lykodimou, one of the largest medieval buildings in Athens. The Byzantine church was built a little before 1083 within the city’s defensive walls. In 1847, the Russian government purchased the property and Tsar Alexander II undertook the huge renovation of the building in 1850, when the impressive bell tower and side tribunes were added. Now commonly known as the Russian Church it is the parish church of the Russian Orthodox community in Athens.
Stepping into the church, the eye is drawn upward to the impressively festooned dome and the exquisite tall Russian iconostasis, which warranted further inspection, however, before I could take additional pictures, I was instructed that none were allowed.
A quick walk around the exterior and I finally decided that my church tour was complete and it was finally time for my nap.
Within the ancient winding city of Athens, there are many more churches that are worthy of inspection. Dating back to the 5th century and boasting impressive architecture, most are well-preserved and decorated with icons and rare-frescoes. While strolling around the city, everyone should take time to visit these historical houses of worship.
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Agia Dynamis
Corner of Mitropoleos and Pentelis Streets
Take metro to Syntagma square, cross the square to the start of Mitropoleos Street and walk west. The church will be on your left.Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens and Agios Eleftherios Church
Metropolitan Square, Athens 105 56
Take metro to Syntagma square, cross the square to the start of Mitropoleos Street and walk west. The square and churches will be on your left.
Church of Pantanassa
Monastiraki Square, 10555 Athens
By Metro: 1 (Green Line), 3 (Blue Line), Station “Monastiraki”
By Bus: 025, 026, 027, 035, 200, 227, 500
By Foot: From Syntagma Square, follow Ermou Street all the way down until you meet up with Monastiraki Square
Church of the Holy Trinity
Corner of Filellinon Street and Souri
Take metro to Syntagma square. Head south on Amalias, take a right on Souri.
When going to a city that I have visited many times before, sometimes it seems as though I have seen it all. Absolutely aware that I have not, it just sometimes feels that way when looking for new things to do and seemingly finding the same things suggested over and over.
In order to plan my layovers, I always do a Google search for things to do in a city, however, usually all of the common touristic things pop up that I have already experienced. Recently, I have been employing the search for offbeat things to do. Sometimes you find some really cool stuff (check out my post on the the Purgatory Museum in Rome, “Bones and Burns”!).
Last week, while investigating activities in Athens, Greece, I decided to look for any unique sights that I had not explored previously. With my offbeat search, I came across “Tom’s Place” on the Athens Info Guide website.
The home of Tom McGrath on 23 Iperidou Street, collapsed in the earthquake of 1999. Tom, described as a free spirit, was purported to still live on the property in a run-down room at the rear of the plot amidst a collection of strange objects displayed among the rubble…a vintage motorbike displayed near a car dubbed the Taliban Taxi…a pair of feet sticking out of a plywood coffin…a stuffed elephant peeping from a rubbish bin…a collection of offbeat signs and graffiti.
Marking my Google Maps on my Iphone, I decided that I would try to find this strange residence since my plans were to be in the area.
Setting out, I completed my errands and a few other bits of sightseeing. As I meandered through the Monistiraki Flea Market, near the Old Agora, I checked my map and adjusted my route to take me in the direction of Iperidou Street. As I was nearing the destination, I started looking out for the strange artistic assemblage, but what I stumbled upon was not what I was expecting. There on the street corner, was a plywood barricade with crumbling bricks peeking out behind the tops and a dilapidated doorway amidst a decaying facade. The walls were painted a bright blue and contained a mass of political messages. At first, I was not sure that this was the right place…until I stepped around the corner and discovered, Tom’s Donation Box!
This was absolutely the right place, but how disappointing to not be able to see Tom’s odd collection, I thought, as I looked for an unlocked door or window to peek through.
As I looked across the street, I noticed a sign hanging on a door…Tom’s Corner Plaka. Hmmm. Could Tom be living there? As I lifted my camera up to take a picture of the sign, the door opened and man stepped outside and began to lock the door behind him.
It had to be Tom!
As he walked across the street, I hesitated for a split second before calling out (and thinking that I must be insane) to him. “Are you Tom?”. He seemed to freeze for a second, even as he walked, not knowing whether or not to answer. Then, as if his curiosity got the best of him, he said, “Yes, I am Tom”. He began to walk toward me.
Introducing myself to him, I explained that I had come to see his collection of oddities that I had read about and was disappointed to see that his home was boarded up. He then said to me, “You must have been reading Lonely Planet. Very inaccurate it is.”
Explaining that I had read about him on the internet, but not sure where, I had thought his home would be interesting to see. Tom explained that he had been required to board up his residence as it was deemed an eyesore, but now lived across the street. We then began a conversation that went on to last about 30 minutes and covered many topics from the Presidential Race in the United States (he thinks Trump is interesting), to where he grew up (Belfast, Ireland) and on to Pan American Airways (he used to drive their crew bus).
Realizing that he had been leaving when I interrupted him, I tried many times to end the conversation, not wanting to keep him…but he kept on talking! Quite the character, he was extremely entertaining and funny and I found myself enjoying my time there on the curb of Iperidou Street.
Finally, I insisted that I not keep him from his errands and I bade him a farewell. After finding out that I was a flight attendant, he inquired as to the frequency of my visits to Athens and demanded that I come and visit him again the next time I was in town…I also had to agree to bring friends! We finally shook hands and went on our way!
Leaving Tom’s Place, I was happy that I had stumbled across the suggestion in the Off the Beaten Path section of the Athen’s Info Guide. Feeling happy that I had succeeded in my task and accomplished way more than marking off something from my sightseeing list…I had made a new friend! Traveling is not only about seeing and experiencing things, but about meeting unique and interesting people along the way. That, my friends, is worth way more than the admission price to the Acropolis!
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How to get there: Take metro to Syntagma stop. Walk across Sytagma Square to the start of Mitropoleos Street heading west, then take a left on to Voulis. Take a right on Iperidou. Tom’s place is on the corner of Iperidou and Sotiros.
After paying my entrance fee of 2 euro, I made my way to the neo-classical styled museum. Informed by the ladies in the ticket office that the museum would take about 40 minutes, I started first by inspecting the statuary located outside under the portico, then finally moving in to the interior. Here, there is a vast display of burial-related artifacts, including marble sculptures, funerary urns, pottery, jewelry and toys. Most notable is the stunning bull, in the interior courtyard, from the tomb of Dionysios of Kollytos. A large number of original burial monument sculptures and grave markers are displayed at the museum in the outer courtyard, with plaster replicas replacing in them in their original sites.
