© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.
On my recent visit to Edinburgh, I learned some new things. New things about Harry Potter, in fact.
Reading about the Potter Trail, a free walking tour in Edinburgh, I decided that it would be just the sort of thing that a 15 year old boy, who grew up with Harry Potter, would think was cool. Little did I realize how much I would enjoy it!
Finding the statue of Greyfriar’s Bobby on George IV Bridge, which was the start of the tour, was a bit of a challenge. For the “Scottish” challenged, the name threw me for a bit of a loop! What or who was a Greyfriar’s Bobby? And while walking down the street that I thought it was on, which changes names, where was the bridge? After asking three kindly Scotsmen if we were headed in the right direction, we were directed to continue on a couple of blocks, although upon arrival, we would have definitely known we were there. A large crowd had congregated around a statue of a small Skye Terrier, some wearing witch hats, round Potter-like glasses and cloaks!
The Skye Terrier statue, named Bobby, is a whole other story in itself, standing on the curb in front of Greyfriar’s Bobby bar and created by William Brodie in 1872. The best known story surrounding the dog tells a tale of a canine so devoted to his master that when his owner passed away, the dog spent the next 14 years guarding his grave until his own passing. The statue was initially created as a drinking fountain with the upper part for humans and the lower for dogs, although the water supply was cut off many years ago. In the nearby Greyfriar’s Kirkyard, a red granite stone was erected on Bobby’s grave in 1981 and small dog toys, flowers and sticks (for Bobby to fetch) are frequently left.
Finally, after watching many people rub Bobby’s nose and dress him up for the Christmas holiday, our tour guide, Jodie, arrived…looking very much the part. Passing out “magic” wands (to assist with our spells for stopping traffic), we set out on our way, first entering Greyfriar’s Kirkyard. Our tour guide showed us Greyfriar’s Bobby’s gravestone and then began to give us information on the creation of Harry Potter…in Edinburgh.
This was new to me! Though I admit, I loved the movies and the books, but I guess, for some reason, I always thought the books were written in London. I never realized that JK Rowling was Scottish!
There in Greyfriar’s Kirkyard, we were shown the graves of people that inspired the names of two of the main characters, Professor McGonagall and the Dark Lord himself, Voldemort (Tom Riddel). Interesting stories were shared and then we looked out of the rear gate upon the school and the uniform-clad children being dismissed, that inspired the Houses of Hogwarts; Gryffendor, Ravenclaw, Hufflepuff and Slytherin. Here, my son was drafted from the crowd and “sorted”.
Before we left the cemetery, we were shown the best view of the castle in all of Edinburgh. We were told how JK Rowling sponsored a contest for young, aspiring writers. The winners were rewarded with a visit to the Grassmarket area, transformed to look like Diagon Alley, and then on to the castle, which was “magically” converted into Hogwarts Castle.
After leaving Greyfriar’s Kirkyard, we then went on to the Spoon Café, once known as Nicolson’s Café and the spot where JK Rowling first penned her stories about a young wizard. We then continued on to The Elephant House, another café in which Rowling was inspired to write the early novels of Harry Potter as she sat at the rear window, looking out onto the Greyfriar’s Kirkyard, George Heriot’s School and Edinburgh Castle. Another location famous for the Harry Potter novels is the Balmoral Hotel. Located on Princes Street, it was not on our tour, but near to our hotel. It was there that Rowling finished her seventh and final book, Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows.
Continuing on, we then visited the tunnel, Potterow Port, on the University of Edinburgh’s campus, which inspired the scene where Harry and his cousin, Dudley, were being chased by Dementors. It has been speculated that Potterow, an area which the author sometimes frequented, may have been the inspiration for Harry’s surname.
Lastly, we finished our tour in The Grassmarket. This area, located in a hollow, below the Castle and Royal Mile, is a historic market place and event space in the Old Town area. The long winding street, with colorful storefronts and restaurants, will have you thinking that you are on Diagon Alley searching for your first wand. Hey, you almost expect to see the goblins from Gringots standing on the street corner!
At the conclusion of our tour on Victoria Street, we returned our wands, tipped our tour guide and said goodbye to our short, but exciting Harry Potter adventure. Maybe a new book could come of it…Harry Potter and the Terrific Tourists!
One of the most fascinating things I have every done in any city, I finally walked away from a tour feeling as though I really learned something. With a newfound appreciation for the struggle and hardships that the amazing author faced, I suddenly felt the need to go home and reread all seven books!
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe, and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
Potter Trail Tour
- http://pottertrail.com/
- Address: 30-34 Candlemaker Row, Outside Greyfriars Bobby’s Bar, Edinburgh EH1 2QE
- Hours: Usually every Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday at 1500. Check schedule on website.
- Admission: free walking tour, however, tips appreciated at the end of tour
Spoon Café
- http://www.spoonedinburgh.co.uk
- Address: 6A Nicolson Street, South Bridge, Old Town, Edinburgh, Edinburgh EH8 9DH
- Hours: 1000-2200, Monday thru Saturday, 1000-1700, Sunday
The Elephant House
- http://www.elephanthouse.biz
- Address: 21 George IV Bridge, Old Town, Edinburgh, Edinburg EH1 1EN
- Hours: 0800-2200, Monday thru Thursday, 0800-2300, Friday, 0900-2300, Saturday, 0900-1000, Sunday
Although the castle’s origins as a residence date back to the 12th century, with the reign of David I, Edinburgh Castle only retained a residential role until the 15th century, later transitioning into military barracks and garrison. It was considered one of the most important strongholds in the Kingdom of Scotland and was involved in many historical conflicts. Recent research identified 26 sieges in the castle’s 1100 year old history.
The castle offers many different buildings, museums and vantage points. We began our exploration by climbing the Lang Stairs to the Argyle Tower. Not much to see within the tower, we moved on to Mon’s Meg, the Dog Cemetery and St. Margaret’s Cathedral.
Adjacent to the cemetery overlook is Mon’s Meg, a medieval bombard and one of the largest cannons in the world (by caliber). This cannon was built in 1449 as a gift to James II, King of Scots from Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy. It was used in many sieges until the 16th century and spent some time in the Tower of London until it was returned in 1829.
Moving into St. Margaret’s Chapel, we found it blissfully empty. With a surface area of only 160 square feet, it was nice not having to jockey for position with other tourists to capture nice photos and enjoy the beauty of the oldest surviving building in Edinburgh. The 12th century chapel, was spared the wrath of Robert the Bruce when the castle was captured on March 14, 1314 and all buildings in the castle were destroyed. The chapel, restored and now cared for by the St. Margaret’s Chapel Guild is well worth a short visit, especially for the five stained glass windows of St. Margaret of Scotland, St. Andrew, St. Columbia, St. Ninian and William Wallace, all designed by Douglas Strachan in 1922.
To the Great Hall’s south, is the Scottish National War Memorial, which occupies a converted barrack block and stands on the site of the Medieval St. Mary’s Church. When entering the building, pay note to the gargoyles and sculpture that decorate the exterior. The interior is a long massive space, with a high vaulted ceiling, stained glass windows (designed by Douglas Strachan) and monuments commemorating Scottish soldiers; those who served with the Scottish regiments and those who died in the two world wars and in recent conflicts. On an altar within the Shrine (placed on the highest point of the Castle Rock) rests a sealed casket containing Rolls of Honour which list over 147,000 names of those soldiers killed in the First World War. Another 50,000 names were inscribed on Rolls of Honour and line the walls of the main hall. No pictures are allowed within the building.
The Royal Scots Dragoon Guards Regimental Museum features a large offering of weapons, uniforms, medals and paintings which portray the story of the past regiments that formed or were associated with the Royal Scots Dragoon Guards, including 3rd Dragoons Guards (Prince of Wale’s Own), 6th Dragoon Guards (The Carabiniers), 3rd Carabiniers (Prince of Wale’s Dragoon Guards), the Royal Scots Greys (2nd Dragoons) and 25th Dragoons.
After leaving these two museums, we walked past the Governor’s House and turned left to the entrance of National War Museum. The story of Scotland at war is told here along with the story of the battles that were lost and won. Many military artifacts and personal treasures are on display. Again, this museum is free with your entrance ticket to the castle and is worth a look around. By this point in the day, however, we were getting a bit tired of the museum setting and hungry, so we made it a quick visit.
