{"id":9829,"date":"2018-04-06T09:00:27","date_gmt":"2018-04-06T13:00:27","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/snappingtheglobe.com\/?p=9829"},"modified":"2018-03-30T00:43:13","modified_gmt":"2018-03-30T04:43:13","slug":"a-bethel-of-bones","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/snappingtheglobe.com\/?p=9829","title":{"rendered":"A Bethel of Bones"},"content":{"rendered":"

\u00a9 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved<\/i>.<\/p>\n

There is a church in Milan that I’ve been wanting to visit for a very long time.<\/p>\n

San Bernardino alle Ossa.<\/p>\n

The bones church.<\/p>\n

San Bernardino alla Ossa, is a church in Milan, near the Duomo, which dates back to the thirteenth century, when a hospital and a cemetery were built in front of the basilica of Santo Stefano Maggiore, located next door.\u00a0 In 1210, excess bones from the cemetery needed housing so a chamber was built, next to which a church was built in 1269.<\/p>\n

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Restored in 1679 by Giovanni Andrea Biffi, the facade was modified and the walls of the ossuary were decorated with human skulls and tibiae.\u00a0 When the church was destroyed in 1712, a new edifice was designed by Carlo Giuseppe Merlo and expanded to accommodate the growing interest in the ossuary.\u00a0 The new church was then dedicated to St. Bernardino of Siena and completed in 1776.<\/p>\n

Having been to both the Capuchin Crypt in Rome and the Catacombs in Paris, I was anxious to see how this compared, but I always seemed to be in Milan on Sunday when the church was closed to visitors.<\/p>\n

Due to an irregularity in my schedule and some good luck, I happened to be in Milan on a Friday and the church was open during the afternoon.\u00a0 Making my way from the Duomo metro stop, I approached the area but was a bit confused. The first thing you notice upon approach is the basilica of St. Stefano and its bell tower immediately in the forefront.\u00a0 Seeing others entering the palazzo-like, unadorned building on the left, I realized that this was San Bernardino alla Ossa.<\/p>\n

Entering the church’s vestibule, I acknowledged the Blessed Virgin and followed the corridor on the right, leading to the chapel ossuary.<\/p>\n

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\"\"\"\"The small square chapel, a breathtaking area, was originally decorated with frescoes by Sebastian Ricci, an Italian artist.\u00a0 Today, you can still see his work…gaze upward at the incredible ceiling which depicts the Triumph of Souls Among Flying Angels<\/em> and the glory of the four patron saints, Santa Maria Vergine, Santa Ambrogio, Santa Sebastiano and Santa Bernardino de Siena.\u00a0 The rest of the chapel is adorned with an altar and a niche with the statue of Madonna Addolorata (Our Lady of Sorrows) kneeling before the body of Jesus.\u00a0 Skulls and bones, believed to be the deceased from the hospital and corpses from seventeenth century cemeteries, are arranged in niches and on cornices, pillars and doors.\u00a0 Some are stacked “frame-like” appearing as oversized paintings in simple shapes while others are arranged in ornamental patterns, like skull and crossbones.\u00a0 The skulls that you observe in cases above the door are those of executed prisoners.<\/p>\n

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\"\"Remains interred near the altar are those of a young girl, who, according to legend, comes back to life on November 2nd, All Souls Day, and lures other skeletons in a morbid dance.<\/p>\n

Be sure to take a seat and revel in the unique artistry of the chapel and be prepared for large tour groups entering the chapel now and again.\u00a0 A sign advising against photographs is present in the hallway, however, I did not see this until I heard the caretaker telling a group of Spanish tourists that photography was not allowed.\u00a0 Thankfully, I had been able to capture some stunning photos before I understood the restriction.<\/p>\n

The church itself is not very remarkable and rather small.\u00a0 An octagonal plan, it has two side chapels with baroque marble altars, with the one on the right showcasing an altarpiece by Frederico Ferrario representing \u201cSanta Maria Maddalena in casa del fariseo\u201d (St. Mary Magdalene in the house of the Pharisee).<\/p>\n

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However, be sure not to miss one of the most interesting aspects of this church.\u00a0 The chapel on the right of the altar also houses a tomb of some descendants of Christopher Columbus’ maternal family.\u00a0 You can spy the family coat of arms with the motto, “Colon diede il Nuovo Mondo alla Castiglia e al Leon” (Colon gave the New World to Castile and Leon).<\/p>\n

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The church has grown in popularity over the years and though not very well-known, it often listed in the Top Things To Do<\/em>\u00a0lists of Milan.\u00a0 Maybe not as large as the catacombs of Paris and maybe not as ornate as the Capuchin Crypt in Rome, I do think that San Bernardino alla Ossa is by far the most intimate and most beautiful.<\/p>\n

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San Bernardino alla Ossa<\/strong><\/p>\n