{"id":4520,"date":"2016-11-04T09:00:11","date_gmt":"2016-11-04T13:00:11","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/snappingtheglobe.com\/?p=4520"},"modified":"2016-11-01T23:35:09","modified_gmt":"2016-11-02T03:35:09","slug":"hanoi-leaving-no-stone-unturned","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/snappingtheglobe.com\/?p=4520","title":{"rendered":"Hanoi, Leaving No Stone Unturned"},"content":{"rendered":"

\u00a9 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.<\/em><\/p>\n

The streets of Hanoi\u00a0were calling…<\/p>\n

With so many things left to see in Vietnam’s capital, even though I was exhausted from the long trip the day before, rising early was a must! \u00a0As I walked along P. Hang Ga, I learned that being up and out early had its advantages…the sidewalks were not as crowded, making it much easier to reach my first destination, Hoa Lo Prison Museum.<\/p>\n

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\"image\"<\/a>Hoa Lo Prison\u00a0was built in 1896 by the French and was intended to house only 450 inmates. \u00a0The inmate population eventually exceeded that number, however, and terrible housing conditions resulted. \u00a0Many died within its confines, but without adequate\u00a0security, many escaped the prison walls over the years.<\/p>\n

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\"image\"<\/a>The museum focuses mainly on the prison’s use during the French occupation up until the mid-1950s, during Vietnam’s struggle to gain independence. \u00a0Many displays show the deplorable conditions in which the prisoners lived and the punishments they received. \u00a0A French guillotine is showcased\u00a0in one of the rooms and many cells are open for inspection. \u00a0There is also a memorial in the courtyard dedicated to the Vietnamese prisoners.<\/p>\n

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Two rooms also concentrate on the American pilots who were incarcerated in the prison during the American War (as it is called in Vietnam). \u00a0The U.S. POW’s referred to the prison as the Hanoi Hilton and after analyzing the many photos, it seemed as though the American prisoners were treated well, though from prisoners accounts, we have learned that was far from the truth. \u00a0American pilots that were incarcerated included Pete Peterson (the first U.S. ambassador to a unified Vietnam in 1995) and Senator John McCain (Republican nominee for the U.S. Presidency in 2008). \u00a0Senator McCain’s flight suit is displayed as well as photos of the Hanoi locals rescuing him from Truc Bach Lake.<\/p>\n

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\"image\"<\/a>After leaving Hoa Lo prison, a short walk took me to the Ambassadors’ Pagoda (Qu\u00e1n S\u1ee9 Temple) in the French Quarter area of Hanoi. \u00a0The well-maintained pagoda\u00a0is the official headquarters of Buddhism in Hanoi. \u00a0The pagoda received its name during the 17th century when there was a guesthouse that\u00a0housed the ambassadors of Buddhism from other countries. \u00a0Today, residents hold “send-off” ceremonies for the souls of recently deceased family members and government officials frequently make visits to the pagoda.<\/p>\n

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\"image\"<\/a>Deciding to walk a short ways through the French Quarter area, I circled Thien Quang Lake and headed back north to St. Joseph’s Cathedral, stopping to purchase some delicious donuts from a local Vietnamese woman. \u00a0She obviously thought I need fattening up as she filled the bag completely. \u00a0I had to ask her to take donuts out of the bag four\u00a0times to get to the amount that I desired!<\/p>\n

Eating my snack as I walked, I soon arrived at the Neo-Gothic Cathedral. \u00a0Noticing that the main entrance was blocked off, I admired the soaring facade with its twin bell towers and took pictures from its plaza. \u00a0Assuming that entry was only available during Mass-times, I continued my journey, only to find later that entry was available through the Diocese of Hanoi compound, a block away.<\/p>\n

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Arriving in the Hoan Kiem Lake area, I first noticed the Thang Long Water Puppet Theater. \u00a0Not quite understanding what a water puppet show entailed, I had heard that the shows were quite\u00a0nice and something that all visitor’s to Hanoi should see. \u00a0Proceeding to the ticket counter, I purchased a ticket to the next show. \u00a0Having more than\u00a0an hour before my performance, I decided to do a little shopping and visit the Ngoc Son Temple which sits in the middle of Hoan Kiem Lake.<\/p>\n

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Ngoc Son (Temple of the Jade Mountain) is reached by entering the Tam Quan (Three-Passage Gate) and crossing the red wooden bridge\u00a0called The Huc (Rising Sun), to the its location on the Jade Islet. \u00a0In the 16th-18th centuries, a country villa was located on the islet and used by the Trinh mandarins when boating on the lake. \u00a0In the 19th century, the temple had many different uses, but currently, it is dedicated to Tran Hung Dao, a 13th century Vietnamese national hero, scholar Van Xuong and to Nguyen Van Sieu a Confucian master who restored and expanded the temple in 1864.<\/p>\n

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\"image\"<\/a>There are a few buildings to visit in the temple, the Pen Tower, Dai Nghien, the Moon Contemplation Pavilion and the Pavilion Against Waves, all of which have symbolic meaning. \u00a0Once you have spent time within the temple, take time to observe the lake from this unique perspective. \u00a0If you are early enough in the morning, catch the sunrise from the bridge and throughout the day, watch for a giant turtle head floating above the water…a sign of good luck.<\/p>\n

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\"image\"<\/a>Leaving the busy temple, I headed back to the Thang Long Water Puppet Theater. \u00a0Taking my seat in the middle of the theater, I marveled at the musicians accompanied by the cheo singers who chant the story and warn the puppets of danger. \u00a0Although I watched closely, I could never figure out how the puppets danced above the water. \u00a0Reading up on the art of Vietnamese puppetry, I did learn that the guilds closely preserve the secrets of their craft…so, I guess I will never know. \u00a0Enjoying something I had never experienced. it was also nice to be away from the heat of the day and have a chance to rest my feet.<\/p>\n

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\"image\"<\/a>The next point on my map was Ng\u00f4i Nh\u00e0 di S\u1ea3n\u00a0(The Heritage House). \u00a0A small inconspicuous building on Ma May Street, I actually walked past it a couple of times before realizing its location. \u00a0One of the few intact remains of an old-style home in Hanoi, it is an excellent glimpse into how Hanoi’s residents once lived.<\/p>\n

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\"bach-ma\"<\/a>Further down the street from the Heritage House is the oldest temple in Hanoi, Bach Ma. \u00a0Also known as the White Horse Temple, it was built in the 11th century by the order of King Ly Thai To, the governor of Hanoi. \u00a0Everything you see today, however, dates from the late 18th century when the temple was restored. \u00a0Arriving at the end of the day, the woman in charge of the temple was closing up, but saw me approaching and invited me in. \u00a0She kindly allowed me to look through the entire building without feeling rushed.<\/p>\n

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The final things on my Hanoi “To Do” list were not far in the Old Quarter. \u00a0Navigating the crowded and narrow streets, I first made my way to the Old City Gate. \u00a0Somehow, I lost my bearings and was not sure which direction to turn. \u00a0With the help of a shopkeeper, I was pointed in the right direction and soon found the landmark. \u00a0In 1010, the thick city walls\u00a0protected the city’s interior and the king and his court. \u00a0Access to the city was by four gates, only one of which remains today. \u00a0The gate still stands strong and motorbikes ride through the openings throughout the day.<\/p>\n

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\"img_8501\"<\/a>Walking through the gates, I came to the highway and crossed over using the covered walkway. \u00a0Spanning 4 km of the Song Hong dyke, is the Hanoi Ceramic Road. \u00a0Completed in 2010 for Hanoi’s 1000th birthday celebration, it is comprised of scene’s depicting different periods in Vietnam’s history. \u00a0I first saw this mural upon my arrival into the city and then again while on the bus to Ha Long Bay. \u00a0It is wonderful to see the craftsmanship up close, though a little disconcerting with the traffic flying by.<\/p>\n

Finally, my checklist was complete. \u00a0Everything that I had set out to do and see in the country’s capital was now stored away in my memory and on my camera’s SD card. \u00a0It was time to move on. \u00a0It would be an early morning as I set out for my next Vietnamese adventure…Hoi An.<\/p>\n

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.<\/p>\n

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Hoa Lo Prison Museum<\/strong><\/p>\n