{"id":2694,"date":"2016-07-01T10:11:52","date_gmt":"2016-07-01T14:11:52","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/snappingtheglobe.com\/?p=2694"},"modified":"2016-07-01T11:45:39","modified_gmt":"2016-07-01T15:45:39","slug":"st-pauls-outside-the-walls","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/snappingtheglobe.com\/?p=2694","title":{"rendered":"St. Paul’s Outside the Walls"},"content":{"rendered":"

\u00a9 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.<\/em><\/p>\n

St. Peters<\/strong><\/h6>\n
St. John the Lateran<\/strong><\/h6>\n
St. Mary Major<\/strong><\/h6>\n
St. Paul’s Outside the Walls<\/strong><\/h6>\n

Of\u00a0the four major basilicas in Rome, I had been to three. \u00a0It was time to venture a little out of the city center in search of the latter.<\/p>\n

Strangely, I had never heard of St. Paul’s Outside the Walls. \u00a0While reading a thread about the bus system in Rome, I came across the name from someone seeking travel instructions. \u00a0This basilica, while occupying land in Italian territory, is not within the territory of the Vatican City State as are the other three. \u00a0Located outside the Aurelian walls of Rome, hence its\u00a0name, the Holy See fully owns the Basilica, however, Italy is legally obligated to recognize the Vatican’s full ownership.<\/p>\n

\"image\"<\/a>Getting to St. Paul’s is not extremely difficult. \u00a0Discovering that the basilica is adjacent to a metro stop of the same name, I decided that taking the metro would be the easiest way to travel. \u00a0Arriving at the station of Basilica San Paolo, the dome of the basilica was easily spotted. \u00a0Following a group of nuns past the clock tower ensured I was on the right path!<\/p>\n

Arriving at the entrance on the west side of the basilica, I was shocked to see something I would only expect at St. Peter’s…a long line waiting to go through security. \u00a0The line was not very organized and much too wide. \u00a0People were busy talking and not moving forward, while others were walking up the sides of the line and moving ahead. \u00a0After a twenty minute wait, I finally made my way up and past security.<\/p>\n

There are many things that set this basilica apart from the others. \u00a0When entering the structure, the lovely columns that line the front of building enclose a remarkable courtyard. \u00a0Until you reach the center, you don’t quite see the beauty of the basilica’s\u00a0gold front facade with the detailed mosaics that catch the sunlight. \u00a0In the courtyard stands an imposing statue of the apostle Paul amidst an impeccably maintained garden\u00a0.<\/p>\n

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Interesting to note is that this courtyard and facade as well as many things within the church were all added in the nineteenth century. \u00a0Of all the churches in Rome, this particular one had preserved it primitive character for 1,435 years\u00a0until it was destroyed by fire in 1823. \u00a0Eager to see the basilica rebuilt, the world contributed to its restoration; \u00a0the Viceroy of Egypt sent pillars of alabaster and the Emperor of Russia, malachite and lapis lazuli for the tabernacle. \u00a0The Italian government ensured that work on the principle facade, looking toward the Tiber, was completed and declared the church a national monument.<\/p>\n

\"image\"<\/a>Walking up to the basilica, a central bronze door, with inlaid silver, is the focal point. \u00a0It was created in 1930 by Antonio Maraini, after the original, a gift from Pope Gregory VII in 1070, was damaged by the fire. \u00a0(The original, can be seen, restored, on the inside of the basilica). \u00a0The reliefs on the door present scenes from the lives of Saints Peter and Paul. \u00a0More importantly, this door is flanked on the right by\u00a0one of the four\u00a0Holy Doors in Rome, as declared by the Vatican. \u00a0The Holy Door is only opened during Jubilee years by the Pope (once every twenty-five years).<\/p>\n

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When entering the church, you are overcome by the vastness of the space only broken by the four rows of twenty granite columns that separate the central nave from its aisles. \u00a0The original columns of the church before the fire had been taken from ancient Roman temples and were unable to be salvaged.<\/p>\n

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Paintings of the pope above the columns<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Most interesting are the circular paintings of the popes that line the space, something not seen in the other basilicas. \u00a0Most of these paintings were damaged by the fire and restored, but some of the inscriptions have been eternally lost. \u00a0The pictures begin with St. Peter to the present pope, Francis. Very few spaces remain and legend has it that when these spaces are filled, a major event will occur.<\/p>\n

Walking farther into the basilica, you will find a recessed area with circular stairways leading down on either side. \u00a0Here you will find the surviving links of the chain, on a silk background, that according to tradition, held St. Paul while he was a prisoner in Rome between 61 and 63 AD. \u00a0These chains are illuminated and displayed in a case near his tomb which is located under the altar.<\/p>\n

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The chains of St. Paul<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Paschal Candle<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Near the front of the altar area, take note of the carved Pachal candle which stands more than 16 feet\u00a0high and was made in the 12th century by Nichola dell’Angelo and Pietro Vassalletto.<\/p>\n

At the rear of the church are the chapels, the Blessed Sacrament Chapel, the Chapel of Saint Benedict, the Chapel of St. Laurence and the Chapel of St. Stephen. \u00a0Above the Tabernacle in the Blessed Sacrament Chapel hangs a magnificent crucifix sculpted by Pierre Cavallini. \u00a0This is the crucifix of which Christ turned his head toward\u00a0St. Bridget of Sweden and gave her the “15 Prayers of St. Bridget”.<\/p>\n

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St. of St. Stephen<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Blessed Sacrament Chapel<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Chapel of St. Benedict<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

While in the apse, take a look upward at the only remaining part of the medieval basilica, the 13th century mosaic, created by Venetian artists. \u00a0This breathtaking\u00a0mosaic, ordered by\u00a0Pope Honorius III, \u00a0depicts Christ on a throne flanked by the Apostles Peter, Paul, Andrew and Luke.<\/p>\n

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Apse Mosaic<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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\nAt the end of the right transept is the entrance to the cloisters and the Chapel of Relics. \u00a0An entrance fee is required to enter, but worth every penny to see the cloisters with their graceful, twisted mosaics-filled columns that line the arcades. \u00a0These cloisters, built between 1208 and 1235 by the Vassalletti family, were untouched by the fire of 1823 and have often been described as the most beautiful in Rome.\u00a0\u00a0The walls of the walks are lined with ancient sculpture and epigraphy recovered in excavations, mostly during the rebuilding of the church. \u00a0In the center of the cloisters is a rose garden. \u00a0This area was relatively empty during my visit, allowing me to enjoy the peace and solitude which should accompany an area of that nature. \u00a0The Chapel of the Relics is worth only a quick visit now that the Chains of St. Paul are displayed within the church.<\/p>\n

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Chapel of Relics<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After exiting the church, a visit to the well-outfitted gift shop offers not only\u00a0rosaries\u00a0and\u00a0other religious objects, but bottles of wine made by the Benedictine monks (not sold on Sundays or religious holidays). \u00a0You can also stop in to the cafe, next to the gift shop, for a snack or drink.<\/p>\n

If visiting all four basilicas on your trip to Rome is a priority, then a trip to St. Paul’s Basilica is in order. \u00a0Many things set this particular basilica apart from the others in the city and certainly warrant\u00a0visitation. \u00a0Although a little farther than the other attractions of the great city of Rome, it is not extremely difficult to reach and worth the extra effort to mark St. Paul’s off of your “church bucket list”.<\/p>\n

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Basilica de San Paolo<\/strong><\/p>\n